How to Ski the French Alps
The French Alps: the birthplace of après, vast terrain, and unbeatable dining. This region of the European Alps has been world famous since the 1960s and attracts over 100 million visitors annually. This post is specifically about the 3 valleys, the biggest ski resort in the world-Courchevel, Méribel, and Val Thorens. It would take weeks to cover all the trails in these resorts, and they are unique in their own way. There are other things to do in this area besides ski for people of all interests- from spas to shopping to tubing. We were there for one week, and I will cover everything you need to know related to traveling, lodging, skiing, dining, each valley, and more.
Tips to know before the trip:
Flights: either MXP (Milan Milpensa, Italy) or GVA (Geneva, Switzerland). Milan airport is about 4.5 hours away from the 3 valleys and Gevena is around 2 hours away. We flew into Milan because it tends to be more reasonably priced than Geneva. Make sure to book flights ahead of time especially during ski season (Mid-December to March)
Getting around: renting a car from the airport is the most convenient way to get to your destination in the French Alps, especially from Milan. All-wheel-drive is preferred as it snows frequently and the car getting stuck can be a potential issue. There is a train from Geneva to Courchevel that you can take if you are lodging in the village and will not be venturing out much.
Lodging: there are plenty of Airbnbs and hotels for lodging. Most of the chalets are larger and tend to be for bigger parties, so it depends the size of the group. Staying in the village is key to being able to walk to the shuttle bus. For some more upscale Airbnbs, hosts can include a chef and alcohol package to alleviate the thought of grocery shopping and cooking.
General Tips
The valleys are next to each other and are accessible via gondala or driving. There are shuttles in each of the ski towns that can bring visitors from their lodging down to the base.
Après: there are spots all over the area, ranging from the base to mid-mountain. Some are accessible by car and others need to be skied to. One of the notable ones worth mentioning to get a reservation at is La Folie Douce. It is a lively Après destination that has white tablecloth dining, multiple bars, live performances, and VIP section.
Skiing: Coming from the US, the skiing in the French Alps is a bit different. For one, the above-tree line terrain is a new landscape than other mountain ranges. The runs are wider with more space for people to move around and seems to be less crowded. The difficulty level markings are a bit different as well. The ratings go from green, blue, red, and black. The signs are not as obvious at times so it is important to keep an eye out for colored poles on the sides of the run indicating the level. The price of a 6-day ski pass was $380, averaging out to around $63 per day. In the US lift tickets at big resorts cost around $160 per day, so the French alps lift tickets are much more affordable. This is the same for ski rentals which only came out to $175 for the week- we went to SkiSet in Méribel to rent ours.
Méribel
Méribel is where my group and I stayed during our time. It is centrally located in the middle of the 3 valleys, has a wonderful downtown, and more affordable lodging options than Courchevel. There are different shuttles that take you down to the base of the mountain, and has a good supply of Airbnb chalets and hotels. There are pubs and wine bars in the village, along with ski clothing stores galore. The skiing in Méribel was fun, but in my opinion it was not as expansive and the snow was not as good as the other mountains. However, it is worth exploring and the gondolas from the base can take you to the summit where you can then travel to the other 2 resorts.
Dining
For lunch, we went to Le Blanchot and La Folie Douce. Le Blanchot is a nice mid-mountain restaurant with an expansive patio and French cuisine. You can actually access the restaurant via car for people in the group that are not skiing. La Folie Douce was mentioned earlier and goes from a fancy lunch to a large party Après seen within a few hours, with opening hours being 12-5:30pm. For dinner we went to Le Cepe and Tsaratta Spice, both being fun and exquisite French food.
Courchevel
Courchevel is the most famous mountain out of the 3 valleys, and has a reputation for being the ski destination for the rich and famous (one of the British Royal family favorites!). The base of the mountain is filled with high-end shops and even in indoor mall with a rock-climbing wall and ice rink. It is ideal for visitors of all ages and any level of ski experience. In fact, people visiting don’t even need to ski to have an enjoyable stay here. The trails in Courchevel are more rolling blues and greens, with softer snow than Méribel since the elevation is higher. One of the runs, Altiport, runs alongside of the Courchevel airport, so you can stop on the trail and see a plane land or take off!
Dining
One of the unique aspects of Courchevel is that there’s top notch dining all over the mountain and base. One of the best lunches I had on the trip was La Soucoupe, a wonderful French restaurant and wine bar. One of the specialties of this establishment is the beef cuts. After choosing one from the menu, a staff member comes out with the raw meat selection and you choose your own. Another popular spot we went to is Bagatelle, a high-end restaurant that can be accessible from a gondala off the Couchevel 1850 base. The service was not the best, but it was still a fun scene with live music. One night we went to dinner at Les Trois Bô Restaurant – a French restaurant with a wine library. It was beautiful
Val Thorens
Val Thorens is a world-renowned ski resort located in the French Alps, known for its stunning panoramic views and extensive network of slopes. Situated at an altitude of 2,300 meters, it is the highest ski resort in Europe and offers excellent skiing and snowboarding conditions. With over 600 kilometers of slopes in the Three Valleys ski area, Val Thorens offers a range of activities for all levels of skiers. Out of the 3 valleys, Val Thorens has the youngest demographic, and has mostly people around the world in their 20s and 30s. There are fun Après bars and restaurants littered all over the mountain and has a nice balance of terrain.
Below are some top restaurants in that area-
La Maison: This restaurant offers a fine dining experience with a focus on traditional French cuisine, using locally-sourced ingredients. The restaurant has a cozy and intimate atmosphere.
Les Explorateurs: This Michelin-starred restaurant serves modern French cuisine with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients. The elegant setting and exceptional service make for a memorable dining experience.
La Folie Douce: A second location to the one in Méribel
Chez Pépé Nicolas: This rustic restaurant serves traditional Savoyard cuisine in a warm and friendly atmosphere. The menu features dishes such as fondue, raclette, and tartiflette, all made with locally-sourced ingredients.
Le Chalet de la Marine: This mountain restaurant is located at an altitude of 2,400 meters and offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The menu features traditional Savoyard dishes, as well as international cuisine. The restaurant is accessible by ski lift or snowmobile, making for a unique dining experience.
